Repair Terms of Service, Pump Start-Up Procedures

Repair Terms of Service 

Dates during which we accept repairs: June 1 – October 31.  

Repairs are handled in the order they are received. We perform no same-day repairs. Repairs are accepted between June 1 and October 31. No repairs will be accepted or performed between November 1 and May 31, due to high workload in-season. Items sent to us prior to June 1, or after October 31 will be returned at the customer’s expense, as we do not have storage space for repairs during the busy season.  


All items require a $100 inspection fee, which will be credited back if you decide to proceed with the repair, or purchase a new pump/ pump unit/dry break if the old item is beyond repair.  

Lead time for repairs is approximately 6-8weeks but may exceed that depending upon workload. Labor for repairs is $120/hr with a minimum of 1 hour. Most pump units require 2-3 hours of labor. The labor rate does not include parts. 

If an item is severely corroded (especially in the seal area)/cracked/misshapen, etc., we will be unable to repair the item and will return it to you, freight prepaid/charge plus the $100 inspection fee, if applicable. If you’d prefer, we will dispose of it for you after written confirmation. If you have a question as to whether or not an item is repairable, please email a photo of the questionable item to Again, severe corrosion in the seal cavity, cracks, malformations, etc. are generally not repairable.  


Please note we do not service Honda engines or Baldor motors in-house. We can take motors and engines to local repair stations, but taking the engine/motor to a shop counts towards the labor cost, which can increase the cost by approximately $180 per round trip to the repair shop. 2 rounds trips are required, one to drop off and one to pick up. Please note this does not include the cost of the repair itself.  

If there are any questions regarding repairs or repair terms, please email 


Start Up Procedures 

When starting up a new unit, or after repairing an old unit, ensuring the pump is properly primed can prevent seal failure.  

Pumps made in 2012 or newer feature a priming plug on the top.  

Once the pump is plumbed into service, open the suction side valve to allow fluid to enter the pump via gravity. Using a ratchet, spin out the priming plug until you hear air hissing out and see fluid leaking around the threads. Do not remove the plug all the way.  

Once you hear all the air hiss out and nothing but liquid is coming out, thread the plug back in. The pump is now properly primed and ready for use.  

If your pump does not have a priming plug, completely fill the pump with liquid by pouring it into the discharge flange.  

If the supply is not above ground, fully remove the priming plug and fill the pump via the priming plug. 

Failure to follow these steps can result in seal failure, which is not covered under warranty REMINDER! You will need to prime the pump at the beginning of every season and after a seal replacement. 


Plumbing Tips 

To maximize your pump’s capability, use as few 90° elbows as possible. This is especially important on the suction side of the pump.  

Our pumps are designed to provide high flow, but they like to push water, rather than pull it. You can maximize your pump’s performance by keeping the suction line as short, and as straight, as possible.  

90° elbows are unavoidable. However, we highly suggest using long sweep elbows instead of hard 90° elbows.  

Here’s an example of how badly 90° elbows can affect your flow. In 3” line, every 90° elbow is equivalent to adding an extra 11’ of line. A sweep elbow, however, adds about 8’. A 45° elbow adds 4’ of line. So, if you add 5 90° elbows, you’ve added 55’ to the suction line. By adding that many elbows, you drastically reduce the pump’s efficiency.  

If you have to have that many elbows, it is recommended you increase your suction line by one pipe size (from 2” to 3”, or from 3” to 4”). Also, be sure to run full port valves and tank fittings. Any restrictions in the suction line will hamper performance. You can only flow as fast as your smallest restriction.  

Flomax pumps are designed as internally bypassing, meaning a discharge bypass is not needed. However, it is recommended that you avoid slamming the discharge valve shut, as this can cause a water hammer effect, which can result in seal failure. 



Cast iron pumps should provide you with years of performance. However, poor winterization can decrease life span, or even lead to severe damage.  

When finished for the season, remove the bottom drain plug and thoroughly rinse the pump with water. Try to get as much product out of the pump as possible. Ensure only clean water runs out. Once the pump is empty, replace the drain plug.  

Fill the pump completely with RV antifreeze via the priming plug on the top. If the pump has no priming plug, remove the top flange and fill the pump with RV antifreeze until the pump is completely full. You want every inside part of the pump covered by the antifreeze.  

NOTE: While ag chemicals are corrosive, they become more corrosive when exposed to air. In other words, if you don’t properly rinse the pump after the season, and then leave the pump empty, it will corrode much faster. Filling the pump completely full with antifreeze helps fight corrosion, increases longevity, and ensures the seal elastomers remain pliable. 



Please retain a copy of your invoice in the event warranty work is required. In the event you need another copy of your invoice, please email 

Honda GX series engines carry a 3-year warranty from date of sale. Please see #1 below for info on locating your local service center.  

Baldor motors carry a 12 month warranty from date of sale. Please see #2 below for info on locating your local service center.  

MP Pumps carry a 12 month warranty from date of sale. Please note, the warranty does not cover seals. Please see #3 below for info on how to receive warranty support. 

1. To locate your nearest Honda warranty station, please go to Once there, select “Agricultural Equipment” from the drop down and enter your zip code. It is highly recommended you contact the warranty station prior to dropping the unit off.  

2. To locate your nearest Baldor warranty station, please go to: Once there, select “Motors” and enter your zip code.  

3. Pickett will handle MP Pump warranty situations. Again, seals are not a warranty issue. Warranty support covers casting defects, machining issues, and other items related to the casting itself. To request warranty support, please email  

Please note, due to our OEM agreement with Baldor and Honda, we are required to send warranty issues to a licensed service center. We are unable to perform warranty work, per our agreement with Baldor and Honda. Sending Baldor and Honda items to us for warranty service will delay repair and increase costs. 


Seal Replacement 

Remove the pump from the drive unit. If the unit is stuck on the drive shaft, use penetrating oil to loosen bond. In severe cases, you may need to heat impeller drive sleeve with a torch to remove the pump.  

Remove the 6 nuts (Flomax 15 and 10) or bolts (Flomax 8 and 5) from the back of the pump. Remove the adapter from the pump body.  

Completely scrape old paper gasket from pump body and adapter. Any remaining gasket can prevent sealing. Remove and dispose of o-ring, if applicable (pumps with serials of 12A or newer.)  

Knock out old seal assembly from adapter.  

Clean corrosion from seal cavity in adapter using emory cloth / sand paper. Ensure seal cavity in adapter is not pitted, cracked, corroded, or damaged. If so, a new adapter may be required 

Examine pump cutwater. If cutwater is corroded, pump performance will be hindered. On Flomax 5 and 8, the cutwater should be a smooth curve, as shown. In a Flomax 10 and 15, the cutwater should come to a sharp point.  

Ensure impeller and wear plate show no signs of rubbing. This is evidenced by scratches, grooves, or nicks on the impeller and/or wear plate. If the wear plate is no longer flat, has been rounded out, or is below the level of the wear plate screws, it must be replaced.  

Remove old seal and spring from impeller drive sleeve. In the event the seal is stuck to the shaft, try removing the seal in a twisting fashion. Be careful, as the seals have sharp edges. Also, you can apply lubricant and work the seal up and down, allowing the lubricant to get between the seal and drive shaft. You can also pry the seal off, or put the seal in a vise and rotate the impeller.  

Ensure drive sleeve has no gouges, scratches, divots, etc., as these can lead to seal leakage, even after replacement.  

Clean, or lightly sand, impeller drive sleeve. Lubricate ceramic seal with P-80 lubricant. Lubricate seal cavity in adapter with P-80.  

Press ceramic seal into adapter, by hand, with the shiny side facing out toward the pump body. You should be able to see the shiny side once it is installed. Push the seal all the way in, until it bottoms out against the adapter. Do not strike the seal, as it may crack 

Lubricate the impeller shaft seal with P-80. Lubricate the impeller shaft with P-80. Slide seal onto impeller shaft, ensuring it bottoms against impeller.

Install impeller spacer in pump. Replace impeller in pump.  

Replace paper gasket and o-ring, if applicable, on adapter.  

Reinstall adapter back on pump, ensuring paper gasket does not get caught between adapter and housing. Gently press adapter into pump. Do not strike the adapter with a hammer, as this can crack the seal.  

Once fully seated, install the nuts or bolts. Flomax 5 and 8 bodies need pipe dope around the threads to prevent leakage.  

Tighten the nuts or bolts in a criss-cross pattern to ensure even torque.  

Reinstall pump onto drive unit. Tighten pump to drive unit. Tighten impeller collar.  

Remove impeller shim. With engine off / power disconnected from motor, rotate the collar by hand. With your ear to the discharge flange, listen for scraping/rubbing sounds. If you hear none, the pump is ready for use. If you hear some, reinstall impeller shim, loosen impeller collar, and try again. It may be necessary to gently pry the impeller sleeve back on the motor shaft. Once slightly pried back, tighten the collar and double check for rubbing noise.  


Tips and Suggestions 

For gas engines:  

Use ethanol-free gas, if possible. If using gas with ethanol, use Seafoam and/or Sta-Bil in the fuel to prevent problems associated with ethanol (gummed up carburetor, stuck carburetor float, stuck valves, etc.)  

For new engines, change the oil after the first month, or first 20 hrs for break-in. After the initial break-in, change the oil every 6 months / 100 hours.  

SAE 10W-30 automotive detergent oil is the recommended oil for most climates. Consult the Honda manual that shipped with your engine to ensure proper oil viscosity.  

For units mounted on trucks/trailers, be sure to shut off the fuel valve before moving. Failure to do so will cause the float valve in the carburetor to jiggle open, flooding the cylinder with fuel and potentially hydrolocking the motor. If this happens, remove the spark plug, allow fuel to evaporate, and wait 15 minutes before attempting to restart the motor. DO NOT TRY TO START MOTOR WITH SPARK PLUG REMOVED.  

For close-coupled electric motors:  

Once every six months, grease the motor via the zerk/alemite fitting. One full pump is recommended. Pumping more than once may cause the grease to work out of the bearings and into the motor windings.  

Have a licensed electrician wire the motor to ensure proper wire sizing. WARNING: FAILURE TO USE AN ELECTRICIAN VOIDS THE WARRANTY.  

For bearing pedestal units:  

The maximum pump RPM is 3,600. Spinning the pump faster than 3,600 RPM will result in overheating, bearing pedestal failure, seal failure and pump damage. Spinning the pump faster than 3,600 RPM voids the warranty.  

Additionally, pump performace is rated based on 3,600 RPM. Pump performance drops off beyond 3,600 RPM.  

For Double-Seal Units: Ensure there is oil in the oil-seal reservoir. Mineral oil works best.  

On a grease seal unit, ensure there is ample grease. To do this, pull the fitting up. Grease should shoot out under pressure. If it does not come out under pressure, add grease to the reservoir via the zerk/alemite fitting and a grease gun. Lithium grease, NLGI 1 is recommended. 



Engine starts, but shuts off randomly. 


Check oil level. Honda engines have low oil switches. There may be enough oil to start, but once the engine is running, the oil level may drop, causing the shut off.  

Ensure proper fuel level.  

Ensure no sediment has clogged the fuel line. 



Engine appears seized. 


Ensure nothing is jammed between the impeller and wearplate in pump. This is the most frequent cause. Any small debris can cause this.  

Ensure nothing is jammed between impeller collar and pump adapter.  

Remove spark plug to ensure cylinder is not hydrolocked. With switch off and spark plug removed, slowly try to pull engine over using the recoil rope. WARNING: CYLINDER MAY BE FULL OF GASOLINE! STAND CLEAR WHEN PULLING THE ENGINE OVER! If engine pulls over, wait for fuel to evaporate from cylinder. After 15 minutes, reinstall spark plug and try starting again.  

When transporting the engine, shut off the fuel valve to prevent hydrolocking. 



Gas is found in oil. 


Often caused by running at 1/2 throttle or less for short intervals. Engine is not getting hot enough to fully burn the fuel. Tape the cooling intake slots on the recoil housing. Cover a few slots on the recoil housing, a few at a time, to bring up the engine temp. Cover no more than needed to fix the issue. WARNING: DO NOT TAPE COOLING INTAKE IF THE ENGINE WILL BE RUN FOR AN EXTENDED PERIOD OF TIME. DOING SO WILL CAUSE THE ENGINE TO OVERHEAT. COVER NO MORE THAN 50% OF THE COOLING SLOTS OR ENGINE DAMAGE WILL RESULT. 


For electric motors, we recommend consulting an electrician. An electrician will be better able to diagnose issues resulting from poor voltage or amperages, faulty capacitors or windings, etc.